Sam Bilbro makes stunning representations of Italian varietals up in Mendocino County, both from Chris Brockway's Fox Hill Vineyard, and from his own estate in the Yorkville Highlands: Lost Hills Ranch. I love this Nebbiolo, which showcases all of the varietal's gorgeous rose and high-tone cherry aromatics, with an undercurrent of orange zest, tobacco and incense. The tannins are grippy, as you'd expect, but well integrated. Buy a bottle to enjoy now, but set one aside to enjoy in a decade.